| | Robin
11/4/2009
9:30:04 PM
| I'm using it but I didn't know about the salt water part. I had a long talk with Janice and she is great. She told me about the Olive oil opening the pores first, then her cream. | Pamela mae
11/4/2009
7:40:10 PM
| Janice at Hill Top will be so Blessed to hear this is helping you all so much.
Its Shtinky Herby cream that we love -huh? but isn't it amazing how it brings the little white specks(which you did not know were there) gently to the top, and heals at the same time?
I put a thin layer on worst areas,wait 20mins. then wipe with a clean towel,then start again.I do this several times.
I pray this will be healing and bring relief to the areas needed for you Auntie M. , and to you kimmie and anyone else using it.
Blessings & Hugs & much Agape to you my Friends,
Pamela Mae | Kim S
11/3/2009
11:50:37 AM
| Janice has formulated a cream for morgellons. You can find out more on Pam's website. Janice's phone # is 717-543-6063. I have also tried it and love it. I have used only twice on my entire body and about 4 times on my face. My face is healing- the sores have gone down(swelling) and it doesn't clog my pores or break out my face. I love it! | Susanne
11/3/2009
2:20:26 AM
| Auntie M,
Who is Janice, and what is the creme? | Robin
11/2/2009
9:41:52 PM
| OH, Additionally, I left it on over night. The guy on lymebusters says just leave it on. I slept in it and my neck was better the next day. | Robin
11/2/2009
9:37:37 PM
| Great post Mr. CS, you are a lifesaver in this for me. Here's the website - just cut and paste this in the address bar:
http://lymebusters.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=rash&action=display&thread=12711&page=1
| Auntie M
11/2/2009
9:28:53 PM
| I tried the barley paste for 4 days and did not get a significant result. I used non-organic barley from a home brewery supply store as he recommended. I was concerned about clogging my drains as I have an ancient mobile home with previous drainage problems.
Now, I am using a treatment regimen recommended by Janice who sells the creme and is almost "cured" of this condition. I am putting olive oil on my face first to open the pores, then salt water (made with table salt and filtered water). Then, I put a very little of her creme on and rub it in. She walked me through this procedure herself on the phone. This is what she did to help her get rid of the fungus externally. In rubbing her creme in for awhile, the white specks and other Morgellons critters come to the surface of the skin, where I could wipe them off. I used my fingernails to remove the dead, peeling skin. Then, I cleaned my nails and put them in hydrogen peroxide.
Putting the olive oil, salt water, and her creme on my face really hurts, but in 2 days, the crust on my face has peeled off and my skin is soft again. I need to do this with my neck now. It is an extremely uncomfortable process and it is a little too early to see if it produces more permanent positive results. It has for her. I also put all this on my scalp as a huge area was extremely tender (a sign of Morgellons someone said somewhere). I rubbed everything above and left it on overnight. About half the area today seems less sensitive. No bugs coming out yet. I nit comb the entire scalp daily, as well.
Any further developments, I will post. | Mr. Common Sense
11/2/2009
8:04:01 PM
| I have never tried barley but this makes sense. I have long known that people will throw a bail of barley into a pond and the pond water stays very clear. See
Barley Straw: Nature's Way to Rid Your Pond of String Algae
Studies in England show that barley straw is a natural, low-tech way to keep your pond free of string algae.
By Sue Speichert
Originally published in Water Gardening Magazine, March/April 1999 Reprinted with permission.
Aquarticles
As the story goes, one warm and sunny summer day, a bale of barley straw fell into a farmer's pond in Scotland. He wasn't particularly worried about the straw in the pond and simply left it there. Several weeks later, the farmer noticed that there was less string algae in the pond than usual. The farmer's haphazard discovery made its way to the Centre for Aquatic Plant Management in England. The Centre undertook studies to investigate whether the presence of barley straw in water could affect string algae and blue-green algae. The studies confirm that barley straw does, in fact, stop the growth of all forms of algae. According to the Centre's published findings, barley straw is a"cheap and environmentally acceptable way of controlling algae in water bodies ranging from garden ponds to large reservoirs, streams, rivers and lakes."
In a nutshell, barley straw works by releasing a chemical that inhibits the growth of algae. It doesn't actually destroy algae that's already growing in the pond. Instead, it stops the algae before it has a chance to get started.
Barley straw works it magic as it breaks down and decomposes in the pond. It's a gradual process that's very temperature dependent, accelerating as the water warms. Once the straw becomes effective, it continues to inhibit algae growth until the straw is almost completely decomposed. As a general rule, the straw lasts for about six months.
According to the Centre, the precise way in which barley straw stops algae growth is "not fully proven." The Centre believes that when the straw rots, lignins in the cell walls are released into the water. The lignins oxidize into humic acids and other humic substances. When combined with sunlight and dissolved oxygen, these humic substances convert to hydrogen peroxide. Low levels of hydrogen peroxide have been proven to inhibit algae growth. Peroxides only last a few minutes; you would need a constant flow of fresh hydrogen peroxide into your pond water in order to keep algae at bay. When there's decomposing barley straw in the water, the peroxides are continuously produced (given sufficient sunlight and oxygen), and so the algae continuously inhibited from growing.
It's not known why barley straw works better than other forms of straw to keep the pond free of algae. Yet studies have found that barley straw is significantly better at ridding the pond of string algae and blue green algae, forms that beneficial bacteria is unable to keep at bay.
Barley straw only works if it is put in the pond before the algae begins to grow. It will not remove algae that is already present. Once the algae appears, it has to be removed by other means for the barley straw to go to work. This means manual removal of the algae or the use of some type of algaecide. Once the algae has been removed, though, the barley straw will be able to keep the algae from returning.
When determining how much barley straw to use, the important consideration is your surface area of water, not your water volume. The Centre recommends, as a general rule, that pond owners use about .03 ounces of straw for every square yard of water surface. If you've always had a lot of string algae, then you can use more. Once the algae is under control, you can scale back as you gain more experience with barley straw's effectiveness in your pond.
The best way to use barley straw in a backyard pond is to bundle it in a loose bag or nylon stocking. You can attach a string with a weight to keep the bundle from floating all over the pond. Remember, though, that as the straw becomes wet and waterlogged, it will sink to the bottom of the pond. It's important to keep the straw near the surface, because that's where there is more oxygen and also where the straw will have its greatest effect. Attach a cork or a plastic soda bottle to the bundle to keep it afloat.
In large, natural bodies of water, whether ponds, lakes, or streams, the straw should be loosely bundled in onion or potato sacks. It's better to use several smaller bundles rather than one large sack. Place the bundles at intervals so that the most amount of water surface is exposed to the straw's useful effects. In lakes, reservoirs, and ponds, the bundles should be held in place with a weight and kept from sinking by use of a float device. For streams, the bundles can be held in place at the shore and let to float out into the water, again using a float device to keep the bundles from sinking to the bottom.
In a backyard pond, one or two bundles will probably be sufficient. If there is no moving water, the bundle should be positioned in the middle of the pond, so that the anti-algae chemicals are able to disburse outward in all directions. If there is a stream or waterfall, then the bundle should be placed nearby, to take advantage of the increased oxygen and the additional dispersion of anti-algae chemicals throughout the entire pond. A header pool is an ideal location for a bundle of barley straw in a backyard garden pond.
It's best to put the barley straw into the pond early in the spring, so that it will have a chance to break down somewhat before algae would appear. The warmer your climate, the sooner you should place the barley straw in the pond. In mild or cool climates, February or March would be optimal. As a very general rule, it will take up to a month for the straw to become effective. When the water temperature is 70 F or warmer, the straw may take only a month to spring into action. If the water is cooler than 60 F, it can take up to 8 to 10 weeks for the straw to go into effect. Don't put in fresh bundles of barley straw during periods of prolonged hot weather decaying straw combined with dying algae may deplete the amount of oxygen in the water.
If you live in a warmer climate where algae can be a problem even in the fall and winter, it's wise to place a new bundle in the pond in the fall before the old batch has completely rotted away. This will allow the new straw to become effective by the time the old straw needs to be thrown out.
As a general rule, new straw should be added every six months. This is just an average, however, and it's best to keep a close watch on whether new algae appears to be taking hold in the pond. Don't wait until all the straw is gone to add a new bundle. Add the new one while the old bundle is still working, so that there is an overlap. That way, the new straw will already be activated in the pond once the old bale of straw should be removed.
You can use straw in combination with algicides, either applying them when the straw is already in the pond, or using the algicide first and then waiting a while before adding the straw. The sooner you put the barley straw into the pond, the sooner it will inhibit the algae's return.
The Centre's studies have found that barley straw has no an adverse effect on aquatic plants or wildlife. In some cases, submerged plants have been able to grow better once straw was applied, most likely because the absence of algae allows for greater penetration of sunlight and facilitates photosynthesis in the plants. Straw has had no adverse effect on invertebrates such as Water Shrimp (Gammarus spp.) which eat waste and debris. They have been found to grow well and rapidly in the protected environment of the straw. Many invertebrates are in fact a benefit to the pond, since they eat decomposing organic matter, and some eat algae. As the straw decomposes and the number of invertebrates increases, they float way from the safety of the straw bales and are consumed by fish or birds, enriching the food source of these larger pond-lovers. Their numbers also increase and health improves from the presence of the barley straw. Again this is likely because the lack of algae allows for an increase in plant life and small animal life in the pond, which is an important food source for the fish and birds.
| gigi22
11/2/2009
5:34:25 PM
| Oh.. I also wanted to tell you all that 'Desitin Maximum Strength' contains 40% zinc oxide and I used it on certain areas and it brought some relief. You can find it in the baby aisles of the pharmacy. The www.desitin.com website even has a coupon for it.
| gigi22
11/2/2009
5:25:09 PM
| Hi All -
I have done many of these treatments and still do one a week. It works! My arms were once reddened by fungus and they look almost normal now. My biting and stinging is gone. I still have problem areas and still have other symptoms, but the barley treatments helped immensely.
-I took half a lb of malt barley (the lightest color you can find.. make sure that it is *not* organic).
-soak this in water for 4 hours.. use bottled or distilled water, not tap water. Use only enough water to barely cover the barley. You do not want to use too much, or else the resulting paste will be too watery. It's best to just add enough, wait for the barley to soak it up, and then add a little more water.
-blend the barley in a mixer .. pour this mixture into a strainer and using a plastic spoon, press the mixture to get the water out. If you want, put the remaining barley in cheesecloth to get the remaining water out. The water should be fairly pastey.
- Put this mixture on (the watery mixture that you squeezed out of the barley). I stand in the bathtub and first rub it in really well, then I put a thicker coating on.
-Let this dry for 1 hour or more, and then shower it off.
Please try this and report back!! | deb2
11/2/2009
5:04:38 PM
| Hi robin,
It would be great if you could post the actual barley mixture and how long to leave it on so everyone could take advantage of it. tyring to wade thru the lymbuster's site is tedious.
thks | Susanne
11/2/2009
4:07:37 PM
| q. Robin.. When applying the barley mixture .. how long is the minimum to keep mixture on our bodies in order to see results ?
also. . how do we make this barley mixture?
susanne | Susanne
11/2/2009
3:22:49 PM
| Hi Robin. I like this very much so.
You can also send me the page to cures4all@gmail.com
He seems to express a lot about the 'make up' of this 'microsporidia'. I want to try the barley treatment, as I am having a lot of trouble with lesions. I did put the zinc oxide from Aveno and it didnt work (the one they used for diaper rash) | Kim S
11/2/2009
2:23:53 PM
| Hi Robin, can you send me the page- kimfoulkes7@aol.com, thanks so much! | Robin
10/31/2009
12:24:34 PM
| He also says this: Other means of slowing growth -
If your reading this, also read my post on "Chitin is right, treatment successful" as that is the only treatment I have found that actually kills the morgellons fungus. But I also wanted to mention another means of slowing growth, which is a Calamine suspension that contains Zinc Oxide. It is commonly found next to Calamine lotion in the First Aid section of a drug store but any Calamine lotion as long as it contains Calamine and Zinc Oxide, should work.
My hunch is that the Zinc Oxide is the active factor here, as it has an ability to deodorize and therefor counter our urea output, which is directly related to the growth rate of morgellons.
| Robin
10/31/2009
12:21:06 PM
| This really works! I did it last night. This guy on Lymebusters claims he cured all his morgellons lesions. It's worth a try. I had a very sore neck with coarse red skin. I made the barley mixture, which is supposed to block fungus formation, applied it as per instructions and It's 95% better today. The itching stopped and it's gone way down. Just c&p
http://lymebusters.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=rash&action=display&thread=12711&page=1
| Robin
10/30/2009
1:15:00 PM
| http://lymebusters.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=rash&action=display&thread=12711&page=1
I found the link to the anti-fungal chat. I able to get on lymebusters and click on the morgellons after all. The link from my desktop page goes to a page that says no more morgellon chat. Don't know if it is a mistake. | Robin **
10/30/2009
11:44:16 AM | I read this article on Lymebusters. Apparently, now, I tryed to send the link and they have kicked the morgellons people off the site. So, I can send no link. It is about how this guy made this barley soak and applied to his sores. They went away. I copied a little of it for a start but it's too long to post. If anyone wants the page I have it on my desktop. I'll shoot it in to any email address.
Chitin is right, treatment successful READ THIS
Thread Started on Aug 12, 2009, 11:00pm
'As described above, Chitin is a biological polymer. Very similar to Cellulose, with the exception of the ends of the molecular chain. Chitin is very much involved in this condition, the pathogen we are talking about, is a fungus, possibly a hybrid that is closer to being a microsporidia.
I didn't know much about Chitin or Cellulose before taking up research into morgellons. The information about this pathogen or fungus being cellulose based is bogus. After coming down with the condition myself (not nearly as serious as most) and with no luck treating it with antibiotics/antifungals topical or internal. In fact, like reported, the antibiotics only seemed to damage my system in the long run and allowed the symptoms to increase heavily after or even during the dosages. And from my readings, I wasn't even going to attempt taking this to a dermatologist. I was 25 when this started and had NEVER had such a skin condition in my life, I am in great shape, and I refused to believe that this was normal for skin to become so irritated and inflamed.'
me again - he goes on to tell how to clear up the sores by blocking the fungal cleavage - by interruping the cascade.
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